The first two weeks in Peru were great, then from one day to the next the world was upside-down. Peru was hit with Covid so I figure I’m out of here. I checked my online reservation and it reads, “…return flight canceled.” Within a day the borders were closed and a 5 week vacation turned out to be life avoiding people and Covid; in Callao, Peru for the next 10 months.

What follows is a series of portraits I did during the Covid lockdown, added to portraits previously done of family members, professionals and friends. As life began to have a semblance of normalcy, I slowly ventured out into the streets to photograph the people I’ve gotten to know during my time in Peru.

The doctors promised to cut below the knee and save as much of the leg as they could. Not wanting to be bothered with doctors anymore, he insisted they cut above the knee. Gives you an idea of his grit.

We got along famously. In later years I found myself doing more and more for him and though it was never spoken of, it was understood he commanded a high level of respect. Our early morning walks probably helped with this portrait series, since his presence helped build my street credibility. That helps when you want to keep your camera.

Last time there I was in my 20’s, it was hot beyond belief with nothing to do. Out of boredom I ventured into the plantation alone, against my grandfather’s wishes. I got lost, I mean really lost. Three hours later my cousins tracked me down by a river in Ecuador. I gave up trying to find my way back, haven’t been there since.

I knew the house with the roosters by the enormous dog that was chained up out front. One day walking by the house we see a few men out front with roosters, so I inquired. Turns out they weren’t raising fresh chicken for dinner, but fighting roosters.

Julian breeds them, sells them and fights them. I learned there’s quite a lot to the culture and tradition of this sport. Julian was very open and proud of his roosters, but not many people are as curious. Maybe because Peruvians grow up seeing this. Having never seen this sport I was intrigued. For some, I would think their first impression would be like watching a bull fight for the first time.

In the end I made a new friend, who wants to go for beers the next time around.

Upon entering the town square I was bombarded by all types of vendors, fruit, chicken, fish, you name it they sold it. Dante is one of the fisherman and a thrill seeker. I saw a video of the small boat he takes out to go fishing and I know I wouldn’t trust it. Dante told me several times “let’s go fishing, you’ll be fine you’ll love it.” After seeing a video of him and his wife fishing in open water, I realized I ain’t that brave.

After a while all the vendors knew my face, or eyes with a mask. Dante and his wife had this colorful fish stand. I told him I’d buy his biggest fish if I can take his portrait. Once word got around about that deal, I ended up taking pictures of several vendors. It turned out to be pretty good as we were getting great deals on just about anything we wanted to buy.

On occasion I would stop by the newsstand to say hi or get a different newspaper. It turns out Sra. Julia likes photography and knows quite a bit. She was very happy and proud that I wanted to take her portrait.

I kept being met with a sense of pride and formality by the people I photographed. I don’t know if it’s because I’m an American photographer or because I chose them to photograph. Either way, I’m thankful for the experience.

In the end when I returned with his portrait he looked at me with no Idea who the hell I was. I couldn't’t resist so I had to have some fun with it. I was dropping hints about the portrait session and a photographer that had come by a few months before, but he kept drawing a blank until I pulled out his portrait and upon seeing it he turned beet red. He loved it, we had a good laugh and he said next time I go back he’ll take to some people and help me get more portraits.

He wa selling fresh mazamorra morrada, nice and warm. We had to be dressed and ready to run out between 4:30 and 6:00 as he would be constantly on the move. Eventually we caught up to him and became one of his better customers. He makes some damn good dessert and very proudly will remind you he made it. After a couple of weeks he graciously agreed to be photographed.

The photo session was in front of the house I were staying in. I think it took no more than 5 minutes and then it was dessert time. I wish all my photo sessions ended with dessert.

Sometimes his wife would be there instead and I would scare the bejesus out of her. She’s never really warmed up to me, go figure.

In my twenties, my friends and I would bother him after the store closed, pleading with him to sell us some beer. He’s in his eighties now and has mellowed out with age but he always has a smile for me when I’m shouting out for him at the top of my lungs.ption text goes here

The black pull over the two ladies are wearing is not by coincidence, it was a requirement. The good thing is at least there were different color pull overs. Given how intense things got during the pandemic I’m surprised everyone agreed to take their mask off for a couple of minutes as I photographed them. The mask was probably the weirdest part of the photoshoot. For so many months I imagined how the person looked like under the mask and was always thrown off after they took it off. But I’m sure I also didn’t look like they thought.

I went to stake out the cemetery one afternoon and noticed that a properly placed bribe got you in. Sure you had to move fast, stay out of site and walk where you were told, but worth it. In Peru only the rich go in the ground the rest go in the walls. The poorer you are the higher up on the wall you go. I don’t come from money, so I’ve always required the help of a caretaker with his ladder to put flowers on the headstones of my family.

I’ve known Sojo for some time but he wasn’t sure he wanted to do the portrait, maybe he didn’t fully trust me, it’s understandable. I show him all the portraits I had done so far and he says “I know him, that’s my friend.” It was a physical therapist for a local soccer team, that I photographed. I needed a physical therapist to pop a bone back into place and my aunt knew the right guy. You never know who knows who, small world. So we came up with a plan to do Sojo’s portrait and went deep into the cemetery, where by chance my great-grandmother is buried.

It was a quick session and I’ve only been back once since then. For some reason it felt like I was playing with my life in the cemetery. In the future I’ll be more prudent with my visits.

After a few times of going to this breakfast stand, Maria knew my order by heart. We became friends and eventually I photographed her and her brother. She was flattered that I photographed them and asked if I would do a family portrait for her. A week later we came together to do the family portrait. I’ve included that family portrait in this series.

If you look closely at the stand on the top shelf you’ll see my payment. Bertha baked a chocolate cake as a thank you for doing the portrait. Being that this is a fresh cake with no preservatives, it won’t last very long. I can tell you that it takes two people three days to eat the whole cake. It was very good, but after three days of eating only cake, I had to take a break from chocolate for a few weeks.

I asked Arturo if he wouldn’t mind being photographed with his car. He was enthusiastically on board. Arturo didn’t exactly understand what I was doing when it came to the portrait, but when he saw the results he was floored. I wouldn’t mind exploring the car scene in Peru.

The doctor’s office is really scaled down compared to the offices here in the U.S., but not lacking in experience and knowledge. The months I spent in Peru saw my health greatly improve under medical supervision. I didn't experience the whole red tape that I’ve gone through in the states.

The best part about the family doctor is it’s like getting 5 specialists in one and the house calls they make. I heard of a time doctors would make house calls here in the states, surely long before my time.

I told my family physician my eyesight was getting bad. With his recommendation I went to the eye doctor and he quickly found the problem. With that news I came back to the states, found a specialist and now wear glasses, all the time.

Turns out I had a bit in common with my doctor, he’s also an artist. When he told me he’s an artist, I told him it was only common courtesy that he let me take his picture, artist to artist. So we had two portrait sessions. This one in his office and the other in his art studio.

He’s the owner. but when I would go there for donuts I was always greeted by the baker. I have a sneaking suspicion that the baker is the true doctor behind the donuts. I set up the portrait session with the baker but when I show up I’m greeted by this guy. I didn't get it, what the hell is going on? I was told the baker left under weird circumstances.

If I want to find the baker I’d have to hit up all the small Venezuelan bakeries. Juan, the baker and all the employees are from Venezuela. There has been a large migration of Venezuelan nationals into Peru. Many jobs are being filled by Venezuelans. I guess its the jobs Peruvians don’t want to do anymore, so the next wave of immigrants will gladly take that job. A story I’ve heard many times over in the states, and a reality in many countries.

Their store is situated close to my family’s house and they always had anything I needed; which made me a regular customer. One day after practicing some english with their daughter, she spoke to her parents in a language I heard once many years ago while at the market with my father. I was in the Callao Market getting food for a birthday celebration and a woman bumped into me rather rudely. While walking away she said some words to me in a language I’ve never heard. I asked my father what she said… “She just told you to go to hell in Quechua.”

Ever since that day I swore I would learn that language, well the learning has been slow going. Not many native speakers of Quechua in Bensonhurst, let alone in the city. But thanks to my photography, there’s hope for me still.

With that out of the way, I would buy fruit from time to time and eventually asked to photograph her. During the initial conversation she mentioned the stand belonged to her and her husband. So I asked to photograph them together, but she politely said no to that idea, it would be her portrait.

Afterwards she kindly asked if I was interested in doing portraits of her two employees. I figured why not, keep the momentum going.

A very faith driven family, I was able to get them to stand under a tree with a religious image in the background. The session was a little rough going in the beginning because they couldn’t understand the need for more light while already outside. After a small explanation we were good. I worked fast as to not tire out the two older ladies and still retain the young boys attention.

In the end they were all so thankful for the portrait, and by my estimations I got a lot of good blessings out of this session. That should keep me going for a while.

This portrait had to be done very quickly, with occasional pause for the customers. Not the best plan to shoot at rush hour, 4pm. That’s when the fresh bread comes out for supper. Ofcourse Marixta started work at 3:30 and the early birds were lingering around waiting for the warm bread to come out.

The customers thought I was some kinda weirdo lighting up all the pastries in sight. In the end I got some goodies to go and another portrait.

The fish Gods were smiling on me that day as there was a nice variety of fish that morning. Elizabeth was asking how to arrange the fish and how did it look. If I would’ve let Elizabeth arrange the fish, I would’ve had a sad session with no fish left, since this is inside a working market. Tell a Peruvian, put that fish down you are interfering with my artistic vision, see how that goes.

I rolled up my sleeves and got my hands dirty, smelly, somewhat slimy. All worth it for the portrait. It was just enough to get the neighborhood dogs to walk up on me afterwards and start smelling me.

Luckily both security guards were working the same night. Alvarado was in charge of making sure no one entered this property owned by a university. His shift started at 7pm and ended twelve hours later.

Squatting is sort of a big thing in Peru. If you squat on a property and start putting utilities in your name and pay those utilities for certain period of time, the property becomes yours. Someone might read this and dispute it but I heard the same thing many times over.

Alvarado was really cool about being photographed and was equally very happy when he saw the results.

Luckily both security guards were working the same night. Alvarado was in charge of making sure no one entered this property owned by a university. His shift started at 7pm and ended twelve hours later.

Squatting is sort of a big thing in Peru. If you squat on a property and start putting utilities in your name and pay those utilities for certain period of time, the property becomes yours. Someone might read this and dispute it but I heard the same thing many times over.

Alvarado was really cool about being photographed and was equally very happy when he saw the results.

The next day my knee looked kinda hinky, but I figured ahh it ain’t that bad and wrapped it up tight and went about my day. This was Tuesday, by Thursday I was hurting, come Friday I was unable to walk or bear any weight on that knee. I asked my cousin to call my aunt and she’ll know what to do. She did. A physical therapist from a local soccer team, Los Sport Boys came over. This knee bending situation actually turned out to be really positive.

We met up at my aunt’s house and while waiting for therapist’s arrival, my uncle gave my a glass of beer. The therapist arrives, notices the beer going around and asks if I drank any. I only had one. That meant I couldn’t get whatever injection I needed. Good!, cause I hate needles. He examines my knee and my ankle. “Ok no problem I can fix this, he’ll be alright.” He begins by putting some God awful hot stuff on my knee and did certain flexes and what not. By this point I’m feeling good and he says “well you started giving him beer might as well give him another.” What I didn’t notice was the signal given to the room to distract me. I raise my glass and look to my family to say Salud!! Cue the loud pop that fills the room, that was my knee.

“What the hell did you do to me!! ‘Relax, your knee is ok now. I put the bone back in it’s place’.” Apparently the funny looking knee thing was a bone off to the side that I somehow managed to walk on for a few days, but there was beer flowing that night and then some so maybe that helped with the pain.

The upside, because there is one; involving the cemetery. When I approached the cemetery caretaker about his portrait he was not too enthusiastic about it. When he saw this portrait, that sealed the deal. They’re friends!! How’s that for luck.

We agreed to do two portrait sessions, one in each respective workplace. I figured the studio would be a dud. Turns out he’s really serious about his art and has been for many years. I was surprised by the size and looks of his studio. He showed me a few things he did and what he’s working on, then we were off to take his portrait.

On two occasions we tried to meet up so I can deliver the portraits but it just didn’t work out so I left them with his wife. He loved the portraits. The doctor sent me a very nice email praising my work and thanking me for the portraits. I’m sure I’ll get to see him next time around.

He would ask me about the Reverend Billy Graham, basically cause I’m American. I had seen the Reverend on tv and what not but I am far from an expert. I get the feeling that he wanted someone to hear what he knew about this great American man as he put it. I didn’t mind, no harm ever came of it and he was happier after we spoke, his smile had a little more happiness to it.

Once life started to creep back to normalcy after Covid, many of the street venders were chased off and forced to be indoors in proper markets. I heard that the cops had it in for him and they took his fish several times and threw it out forcing him to lose a days wages.

I never saw him again but ran into another fisherman who lives on the same block as he does and was told he doesn’t sell fish anymore. He now sold Marcianos. Best way I can describe a Marciano is the long frozen icey that is basically colored sugar water that we eat in the states. In Peru the shape is the same but it’s made of fresh fruit and tastes so good and natural.

Another fisherman also told me Luis is making more money selling the icey but working in a rough area of town. If your not from there you better go in with someone who is, otherwise you ain’t walking out. I figured agh it’s a tall tale what the hell I’ll be ok. I asked around, old timers and even my nurse told me, “…don’t go. I’m from here and I won’t venture into that area.” I ended up giving the portrait to a mutual friend asking him to make sure Luis gets it.

I hope it made him smile.

Gabriela is from Venezuela, and like many of her countrymen came to Peru for better opportunities. She’s very much into art as well, so I mention to her that I was working on a portrait series. With barely the mention of project she was volunteering to be photographed. Makes my job a lot easier.

We worked around Covid. The day of the shoot I carried my tripod in garbage bag and camera in a back pack so nothing really looked out place. Had the administration found out what I was doing I think they would’ve been a little upset that I was taking a portrait inside their facilities in the midst of a pandemic. No harm no foul, just another interesting circumstance that makes this series memorable.

I had to get some dental work done but didn’t like any of the dentists that I met in the states. While on vacation in Peru my cousin mentioned to me that she loves her dentist and he’s in Peru. I pointed out the ridiculousness of flying 8 hours for a cavity, but what I needed was a little more than that. I make an appointment and aside from getting along, he actually addresses my fears of pain and makes sure I don’t feel a thing. I'm sold!

All the dental work done, I went home a happy camper. Before I left I showed my gratitude by doing this portrait of the doctor and his assistant. This time the patient put a smile on the doctor’s face.

I don’t know about here in the states but in Peru during the worst of Covid you had to wear a KN95 mask and a face shield. If it wasn’t a KN95 mask then you had to wear two masks, if not you would be denied service. Peopled waved at me I politely waved back, half of the time I don’t know who I’m waving to.

It’s a hot day and I make my way to Jessica’s Cremolada. As always, Jessica makes sure I get a table. While my order is being taken an employee of waves and shouts ‘nice to see you again, how you doin?’ “Hot day need ice cream.” She saw the confusion in my eyes and quickly lowered her mask so I can see her face. Laura, working her second job at the ice cream stand. I smile back slightly embarrassed.

I would repeatedly go to the market ask around, try to follow the directions only to come up empty-handed. Two days before I have to leave, I finally locate him. Months had passed since I last saw him, so he was thinner and that threw me off, maybe why I couldn’t recognize him, but he recognized me. We were both happy to see each other talked for a while and said our goodbyes for now. I made sure to track everyone in the market down and thank them for the portrait they let me take. I gave every person a copy of their portrait, created during such uncertain times.

If your in a car riding on the street where her ice cream spot is you can’t miss it. Every car has to come to an almost complete stop in front of her shop because of a huge speed bump. When this happens all of the kids that work for her, menus in hand, run up to the cars trying to get the next order. It’s likened to lawful mugging.

When I first started going to her some six or eight years ago Jessica sold out of the cooler pictured here. Now she has tables and a larger operation; and competition. Right next door is another ice cream place selling the exact same thing, or so they claim.

The story as I was told, is that Jessica traveled overseas for six months, and the eager customers kept coming only to leave disappointed. Jessica’s next door neighbor figures this is a good time to cash in on something good. You see most people leave Peru to get themselves into a better financial situation, so the nieghbor thought, Jessica ain’t coming back. Wrong.

I don’t know exactly what happened with Jessica and her neighbor upon her return, but she expanded her business real quick and the customers returned. The overflow of customers would go next door and some of them didn’t realize it was a different outfit altogether.

With family support, Jessica’s business grew. The competition copied Jessica move per move. The main difference between the entrepreneurs is Jessica’s stand is the original with an orange color scheme, and her competitor’s is light blue.

Being loyal to Jessica, I couldn’t tell you how the competitors ice cream taste; I imagine good enough since they still go at it everyday. On a hot summer day you can’t miss the flurry of orange and light blue uniformed kids outrunning each other as they surround cars trying to cash in on the next sale.

I asked him to bring along objects that he feels would help to describe him. He brought his favorite books, that I arranged behind him. Once done he was eager to get back home. I asked him why, he tells me I live in a pretty rough neighborhood. I tried to reassure him that he’d be ok but nothing doing. He couldn’t get back home fast enough.

When I returned with prints he was the first person I reached out to and the one person I didn’t see. I was in Peru for three months and repeatedly reached out to him. “Yes, where you at? I’ll come over in one hour, I’m not far.” That was the first time we spoke, a no show. Then it was a soccer game he had to play. Another time it was work related, exhausted from playing two soccer games on his day off, yadda yadda yadda.

I lost count of the excuses and in the end I gave up when he left me waiting twice in one week. I hope he’s well and don’t know when or if our paths will cross again.

When it came time to track Manuel down to give him his portrait I couldn’t track him or Alvarado down. I had their cell numbers but who answers an unknown number. After my treatments I would go to the area where I met them and asked around other security guards to see if they knew them. Some didn’t know them at all while others were very skeptical of helping me. Turns out there are two security companies that work in the same areas and sometimes they overlap, like the day I met Manuel and Alvarado.

Eventually I tracked down Alvarado. I gave him his portrait and asked for help trying to track down Manuel. Turns out he was away for a month visiting with his daughter that he hadn’t seen in some time. By the time Manuel would return I’d be back in New York. I asked Alvarado to deliver the portrait to Manuel when he returns. He happily agreed. I hope he liked, maybe the next time our paths cross he’ll tell me how he likes it, or not.

The high humidity makes mold grow inside your house if not properly maintained and painted. The gates fall victim to the rust as well. As I run out for an appointment, from the cab I see a welder working on one of the gates. I thought if I can get a portrait of him it would add something to the series.

When I returned he had moved on to another gate as he made his way through our town. I approached him and pitch the portrait idea while showing him what I’ve done so far. He was wrapping it up for the day but he said he would be happy to do it the next day as he finishes up.

A thumbs up for the last image of the series says it all.